I cambered the rear of my Libre and not the Appex. Not that I can't camber the Appex, not sure I would want to.
What degree do you racers set your camber?

Anywhere between 5 and 10 degrees for each wheel would be fine.
The camber for Buggy racing is usually only there to reduce the amount of force that the wheels endure when using disk wheels.
On some disk wheels like the Landsegler and MG are strong enough withstand the lateral load without having to put a camber on them.
Older wheels from libre and pit bike wheels will work without a camber but when you are at full tilt gybing and tacking around a course then the wheels will buckle.

I have my Apex cambered for when I put disk wheels on but I use cambered stub axles to achieve this

All the best

Woody

I have found the type of tire and the type of surface determines the camber. The beach requires les and the dry lakebed requires more. My sysmic 17 inch with moped tires requires about 10 degrees camber on the lakebed and about 4 degrees on the beach, while the motorcycle wheels and tires require No camber no matter the surface.
To much camber increases your rolling resistance strait ahead while decreasing your lateral resistance while turning or while being overpowered.
All this talk is useless if the buggy isn't tuned.
If control is your number 1 concern, tuning is paramount. If speed is the main goal, then never mind.

So I am setting up my Hardcore for the lakebed this summer. I am going to run Barrows on PL wheels. (They are available, and cheap) should I camber?

I would go to the lakebed and see how it feels with or without.
My hardcore is set up with a 12 degree camber full time.

Totally agree with tuning the buggy first with what is already fitted. Also surface, camber and tyre choice.

I like my rear to break loose just before the steering.

On my return run I always monitor my previous tyre marks to see if my tyre pressures are correct for those conditions. Particularly if it's a corrugated surface and performance is important.

And the softer the tyre compound the less camber required. (much more footprint on the much more supple tyre)
Hard scooter tyres need the camber as they have relatively poor traction, compared to a similar sized "120 thread per inch bicycle tyre".
Scooter tyres are heavy, designed to work in a straight line, resist side loadings as well as acceleration and huge braking forces. The motorbike rolls across the tread in a turn so needs harder casings and it must be tough enough to take these forces.

Camber certainly increases rolling resistance too. It's a balancing act.

Getting the right size tyres to fit rims is the big hassle and yes the softer bike tyres wear "Much" more quickly.

Traction v cost, is certainly a big trade off, on the firmer ground.

Nicely said.

Chook, your avatar cracks me up

Cheers RedSky.
They are around us here every day. They even get on well with our dog.
Not many like my avatar though. .