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CHICKENKOOP


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 10:32 AM
ice screw practice


ive been testing these ice anchors am using for the first time.
any advice on placement and starting them.
any tips the old timers would share..


ice screw.JPG - 133kB




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Feyd


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 10:42 AM


http://www.powerkiteforum.com/viewthread.php?tid=16702



Chris Krug-Owner @ Hardwater Kiting. Authorized Dealer of Ozone, HQ and Flysurfer kites.
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Feyd


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 10:47 AM


Those screws are an inexpensive alternative and will likely work in most conditions. But they lack fast installation and removal and are not easy to clear when the ice locks inside. They serve best as base anchors but for my emergency on board back up, you want something that can be installed quickly.

On the climbing screws we use we install neutrally. Straight in. This allows the hanger to shift 360deg. Trying to pick a steady wind direction and install to get the best security from the threads as designed, rarely works inland. Having a long lanyard and biners to allow easy engagement without having to bend over too much is pretty sweet.

If you're flying foils, don't hook your chicken loop to the anchor.




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www.hardwaterkiter.com 518-407-KITE
www.eastsidebikeguides.com
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Memopad


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 01:14 PM


Feyd, what do you use to set up a base camp? I have ice screws, but they're so darn hard to find flush to the ice and snow when you come back to "base." I guess I could try a flag on a stick and put it in the middle of the screw once it's in place. Just curious if you've come up with a more elegant solution.



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Feyd


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 01:53 PM


Good question. I generally use older Lowa screws for base anchor as they are a wider diameter/bore than the Black Diamond or Grivel screws we sell. So they tend to clear more easily in general and we flag our base screws so they don't get lost in drifting snow or hit by snowmobiles etc. The flag pole (6mm thick fiber glass) tends to offer some movement in the wind and keeps things from locking up too bad. The flags also serve as a wind indicator visible about a mile out.

If things are really frozen. I'll pull the screw and hold it in my bare hand for about 25-35 seconds. The heat conducted to the screw usually melts the inside just enough the you can swing the screw with your hand and the ice cylinder will slide out.

I've experimented with Triflo sprayed into the screw to help avoid freezing. Works the first time but needs to be reapplied each use. Not really any better than good ol body heat and conduction.

With allow screws like the one in the beginning of this thread, hand heat works great. The problem with alloy is they dull quickly. Both the tips and the threads. Especially if you set them near a beach. Even when you can't see it, there is often sand silica in/on the ice. Dulls screws and ski edges fast.






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vtliter




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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 03:14 PM


Here's what I've used for many years and it has been a big help finding "home" during long snowy cruises. First year I was snowkiting in a heavy squall and it covered all my stuff at the launch point and took me a long time to find. That was before I started using this which was sort of a joke birthday gift from a friend. Best gift that year!

I insert the pole (old Venom spar) into a separate ice screw and attach a leash and carabiner to tie off kitebag and other goodies.

image1(1).JPG - 70kB




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Bladerunner


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[*] posted on 12-22-2016 at 03:44 PM


Quote: Originally posted by Feyd  
Good question. I generally use older Lowa screws for base anchor as they are a wider diameter/bore than the Black Diamond or Grivel screws we sell. So they tend to clear more easily in general and we flag our base screws so they don't get lost in drifting snow or hit by snowmobiles etc. The flag pole (6mm thick fiber glass) tends to offer some movement in the wind and keeps things from locking up too bad. The flags also serve as a wind indicator visible about a mile out.

If things are really frozen. I'll pull the screw and hold it in my bare hand for about 25-35 seconds. The heat conducted to the screw usually melts the inside just enough the you can swing the screw with your hand and the ice cylinder will slide out.

I've experimented with Triflo sprayed into the screw to help avoid freezing. Works the first time but needs to be reapplied each use. Not really any better than good ol body heat and conduction.

With allow screws like the one in the beginning of this thread, hand heat works great. The problem with alloy is they dull quickly. Both the tips and the threads. Especially if you set them near a beach. Even when you can't see it, there is often sand silica in/on the ice. Dulls screws and ski edges fast.




Has anybody tried spraying " never wet " on their ice screws? I think I'll give it a try since I have some left.

I wonder what it would do to ski bases? Don't think I'll try that.

If I don't bring my collapsible ski poles and a flag I hook my kite bag to my base screw.

You do know that you need to clean out the core from your screw before using it a second time?




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[*] posted on 12-23-2016 at 03:29 PM


Personally I love the Black Diamond/Grivel quick set ice screws! You can set them and screw it in with one hand. Especially helpful if your caught in a bind out on the lake and need an anchor fast. Expensive but worth every penny, IMHO. I clear my screws by warming in hand for a few seconds, then put my mouth on the end and blow the core out:D



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