I've got no knowledge of the width sizing specifically, but "B" would be extremely narrow and doubtful in a production skate for a mass audience. I
suspect a C or D width would be more expected.
I was eyeing a brand new condition pair on eBay that is one size smaller than I would typically be interested in. I messaged the seller and he/she
confirmed that the boot indicates a "B" width which would be too narrow for me.
I did recently get a size 8 used pair that is a C width which is about perfect for me.
Previously I had been using a size 10 D width with double socks which was too big but it didn't matter much due to the extensive boot height and
support.
So, I guess I will settle with the 8 size as my go-to pair.
The 6 and 7 both seem to have the narrow B width unless they produced some in both B and C sizes, which I find unlikely.
The 10-12 sizes seem to have the tallest boots which offer the best leg support.
There may also be some slight variations on these general findings depending on if they are a 98 or 99 pair.
I did end up getting the size 7 pair in like new condition. I found them to be too hard to get my feet in and out of at first due to the narrow width,
but then I removed the laces and added some different laces but started lacing at the 4th holes up from the toe of the boots.
This allowed me to wear them comfortably and get in and out of them easier while still having a nice snug fit.
Power transfer and stability should be pretty optimum, even more so than the size 8 pair that I also use, which is one width size bigger. I simply
wear double socks with that pair.
Thought I would point out this apparent difference in the smaller sizes of Coyotes. My size 7 has a less "robust" frame compared to the size 8-12
pairs.
It is visibly thinner or less "extruded" with less material but almost identical in overall general form/shape. It does however have a couple of extra
aluminum pieces or inserts that go on the inner sides where part of the brake resides. They are visible through the sides near the back of the frame
where there is an oval cutout.
On the regular more beefy frames these protrusions are incorporated as part of the frames themselves.
On the 7s they are held in place by the steel rod/hardware that runs between the back and mid wheels which I believe all Coyote frames have.
The reason I point this out is some may prefer the lighter frame of the smaller sizes if they happen to get a hold of them. Drawbacks are they bend
more when you squeeze the front and backs (when no wheels/axles are in place) indicating they are likely less solid/strong.
Personally I had a standard frame crack off at the back wheel from vibration on the dry lake. I couldn't beef up the frames but did beef up my rims to
aluminium ones when they cracked. Those plastic rims are getting old. I am actually amazed others haven't had issues with them yet?
I've put a lot of hours on my coyotes and have not had any issues so far. The frames are fine. The weakest component of the set up is the wheels, I
would think.
I have worried a little about the plastic wheels cracking or warping-from side stress, extra force of jumping/landing or from bearing
failure(seizing) ruining the center of rims....but no such issue has occurred.
Other than popping tires pretty much all my breakdowns were related vibration on the Playa. One year in particular buggy camp was set up in an
extremely rough area.
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