Power Kite Forum
Not logged in [Login - Register]
Go To Bottom

Printable Version  
Author: Subject: Peter Lynn Axle Jam Nut Mod
rtz


Avatar


Posts: 871
Registered: 10-12-2010
Location: Edmond, OK
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-20-2016 at 05:34 PM
Peter Lynn Axle Jam Nut Mod


I have a lock nut on the front axle so I can tighten it tight enough so the bearing spacer doesn't rattle and not have to rely on the fastener being tight to stay tight. Front tire has always spun nicely.

The setup on the back has never been ideal from the start. If the bearing spacer was exact in length that would be half of it. How exact are the plastic wheels? The situation is when the axle bolt is tightened down; it side loads the ball bearings and makes them not spin nicely.

Finally got around to tracking down the proper jam nuts. These are for 20mm axles:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0141496?term=01414...

Here's how much thread is available with the stock setup:




And now with the jam nut:



And the difference in how the wheel spins:



I rode someone else's buggy and theirs sure rolled nicely and I noticed it most in real light wind going slow. Mine has never been able to coast or roll. It would roll to a stop and always had resistance.




Sting 1.7, 2.4, 3.3
Octane 2, 3, 4, 5
Reactor 2.2, 2.8, 3.5, 4.4, 5.5

Extra Variety: Yakuza 2.2, 2.7 - PKD SF 1.5, 2.2, 3.3, 4.4 - Beamer 2, 3 - Hornet 2, 3, 4 - Ozone Quattro 1, 3 - Flow 2, 3, 4 - HQ Alpha 3.5 - Cross Kites 4.5 - Rage 1.8, 2.5, 3.5, 4.7 - Pansh Legend 2, Flux 2, 3, 4, 5 JOJO RS9000
View user's profile View All Posts By User
bigkid


Avatar


Posts: 4036
Registered: 4-12-2009
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-20-2016 at 05:44 PM


Biggest problem with the jam nut is it is thinner than most wrenches which make it hard to tighten. If it works it's a good deal.:thumbup:



Appex buggy, Libre hardcore buggies.
Haize-Mendi Flexboardz.
Blokarts Pro-Comp.
PKD Century Soulflys (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly's (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly Pro's (complete quiver), NPW's-2m, 3m, 5m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 15m. Nasa Star-(complete quiver), Libre Vampir III-Spirits, Zebras, PL Hornets-twisters-Beamers,
Line sets from 10" to 328" or 2m to 100m.
worlds only AQR that works. American distributor for PKD.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
ssayre




Posts: 3456
Registered: 8-15-2013
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-20-2016 at 07:10 PM


Maybe I don't have long enough sessions to lose a wheel but I had the same issue and I just loosened my bolts. They have only been finger tight ever since I've owned the buggy. They loosen a little more when riding but usually not more than a full turn. I always finger tighten them before each session. I used to worry that they would come off but has never been close. I must not be going fast enough.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
indigo_wolf


Avatar


Posts: 4913
Registered: 12-25-2008
Location: Washington, DC area
Member Is Offline

Mood: Weaned by leopards, raised by wolves...

[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 04:09 AM


Quote: Originally posted by bigkid  
Biggest problem with the jam nut is it is thinner than most wrenches which make it hard to tighten. If it works it's a good deal.:thumbup:


Thin wrench?



Expect to drop some coin, though.

ATB,
Sam




"I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12 - Jesus, does anyone?" - The Body by Stephen King

View user's profile View All Posts By User This user has MSN Messenger
dangerdan




Posts: 200
Registered: 9-5-2013
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 04:36 AM


What about buying a cheap wrench and grinding it thinner or buy a longer socket that will fit over the threads.




HQ Apha V 1.5
HQ Beamer V 2.0
HQ Beamer V 3.0
HQ Toxic V 4.0
Cross Sonic V 5.0
View user's profile View All Posts By User
hiaguy


Avatar


Posts: 769
Registered: 6-26-2011
Location: Whitby, ON
Member Is Offline

Mood: ...counting down to WBB Spring'17

[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 05:26 AM


Call me crazy :crazy: , but why not just use a spacer that's sized properly to take the load from tightening the bolt? (Or, maybe I'm missing something.) I have an XR+ and the only time I touch the wheel bolts is when I change the wheels for my semi-annual beach trip. Other than that, the bolts stay tight, and the wheels spin freely.

Your 2014 thread about bearings had some thoughts about spacers: http://www.powerkiteforum.com/viewthread.php?tid=28380#pid27...
Here's another more recent thread: http://www.extremekites.com.au/topic/12001-buggy-transport/?... (thanks Chook)

There's another thread around here somewhere (maybe it was XK?) that mentioned cutting spacers using a pipe cutter. I'd look at trying a couple of different lengths to see if a slightly longer spacer would allow the tightening you're looking for without binding the bearings.




Go ahead... tell me to "go fly a kite!" Please!

Howard KC67 NAPKA District #12 Representative
Fly: A quiver of Lynx' and Cores and a Rev to remind me about control (did someone say "Pansh"?)
Ride: PL XR+ with BigKid AQR
Where: 43.857899, -78.941661 and 38.970951, -74.828922
View user's profile View All Posts By User
bigkid


Avatar


Posts: 4036
Registered: 4-12-2009
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 05:27 AM


Way to go Sam.:thumbup: now just don't loose it or forget it at home. Or if you do have it to with the buggy chances it will be awkward as heck to use if you're running Bigfoot's or at the worst you won't build a do it because there's no offset on the handle.

As for grinding on the tool to make it thinner, DONT DO THAT! All tools that are produced are made from materials that are not conducive to human health if they are ground on with a grinder, or altered with a torch.
If you do create a enough heat with what you're doing to alter the tool it will lose its strength, much like a knife would lose its strengths and cutting edge if you heated it up.




Appex buggy, Libre hardcore buggies.
Haize-Mendi Flexboardz.
Blokarts Pro-Comp.
PKD Century Soulflys (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly's (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly Pro's (complete quiver), NPW's-2m, 3m, 5m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 15m. Nasa Star-(complete quiver), Libre Vampir III-Spirits, Zebras, PL Hornets-twisters-Beamers,
Line sets from 10" to 328" or 2m to 100m.
worlds only AQR that works. American distributor for PKD.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
bigkid


Avatar


Posts: 4036
Registered: 4-12-2009
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 05:40 AM


Here is a little info on the bearing and the very top picture in this post. When the bolt is tightened against the axle the problem is the buggy axle is rubbing on the outer race of the weight wheelbearings, that's a no-no. That's why the jam nut works because it doesn't stretch out to the outer race and only applies pressure to the inner race of the bearing. If you apply pressure to the outer race and the inner race at the same time the bearing is not able to spin freely if anything I would add a small piece of pipe between the buried and the axle and use a Little bit of Loctite and call it good. I understand why you were only running these wheels and bolts finger tight is because they were rubbing on the axle itself.

If this was my set up, I would buy a longer bolt and use a regular nut for the jam. I use this scenario on all my buggies along with one extra bit of information. I don't use a wrench on the jam not. I insert the bolt through the wheel, apply the nut by hand until it is finger tight then I screw the bolt on to the axle then use a socket wrench to tighten the bolt. I have never had an issue with a wheel coming off or not being able to come off when needed.




Appex buggy, Libre hardcore buggies.
Haize-Mendi Flexboardz.
Blokarts Pro-Comp.
PKD Century Soulflys (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly's (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly Pro's (complete quiver), NPW's-2m, 3m, 5m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 15m. Nasa Star-(complete quiver), Libre Vampir III-Spirits, Zebras, PL Hornets-twisters-Beamers,
Line sets from 10" to 328" or 2m to 100m.
worlds only AQR that works. American distributor for PKD.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
hiaguy


Avatar


Posts: 769
Registered: 6-26-2011
Location: Whitby, ON
Member Is Offline

Mood: ...counting down to WBB Spring'17

[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 06:01 AM


So, wouldn't a washer between the bearing and "axel" (hey, it's a folder) solve the rubbing problem?



Go ahead... tell me to "go fly a kite!" Please!

Howard KC67 NAPKA District #12 Representative
Fly: A quiver of Lynx' and Cores and a Rev to remind me about control (did someone say "Pansh"?)
Ride: PL XR+ with BigKid AQR
Where: 43.857899, -78.941661 and 38.970951, -74.828922
View user's profile View All Posts By User
bigkid


Avatar


Posts: 4036
Registered: 4-12-2009
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 06:31 AM


My guess is it originally had a small spacer between the bearing and the axle.
Even a washer would work if it doesn't reach out to the outer race of the bearing.




Appex buggy, Libre hardcore buggies.
Haize-Mendi Flexboardz.
Blokarts Pro-Comp.
PKD Century Soulflys (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly's (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly Pro's (complete quiver), NPW's-2m, 3m, 5m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 15m. Nasa Star-(complete quiver), Libre Vampir III-Spirits, Zebras, PL Hornets-twisters-Beamers,
Line sets from 10" to 328" or 2m to 100m.
worlds only AQR that works. American distributor for PKD.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
bigkid


Avatar


Posts: 4036
Registered: 4-12-2009
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 07:14 AM


I measured the top pictures to see if the axle was rubbing on the outer race, looks like it doesn't. If the wheel doesn't spin freely while being bolted to the axle as it should, might be an issue with the bearing. Is there a spacer between the bearings in the wheel? Is it the correct spacing between bearings as to not pinch the bearings to allow free movement? Is the bearings old and dry?

Just to clarify the name and the definition of bearing, not all bearings are created equal. Some bearings are use for industrial use which do not spin freely. They are used for high-speed or low-speed, for long duration of time, days, weeks, years. Other bearings such as ones that are used in skateboards, rollerblades, etc. use lighter oil and are more high precision for quieter use and reduced drag for easier use. My point is there are thousands of bearings and types and cost. Which ones do you buy or have in your wheels?
The cheapest bearing in the marketplace for the wheels are not always the best ones to purchase. If I was going to race, I would end up spending about $20 per bearing for one that would do a better job at what I need as opposed to cheep industrial bearing I could buy for .99 each on eBay.




Appex buggy, Libre hardcore buggies.
Haize-Mendi Flexboardz.
Blokarts Pro-Comp.
PKD Century Soulflys (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly's (complete quiver), PKD Buster Soulfly Pro's (complete quiver), NPW's-2m, 3m, 5m, 7m, 9m, 11m, 15m. Nasa Star-(complete quiver), Libre Vampir III-Spirits, Zebras, PL Hornets-twisters-Beamers,
Line sets from 10" to 328" or 2m to 100m.
worlds only AQR that works. American distributor for PKD.
View user's profile View All Posts By User
rtz


Avatar


Posts: 871
Registered: 10-12-2010
Location: Edmond, OK
Member Is Offline


[*] posted on 7-21-2016 at 09:20 AM


The bearing spacers are the ones that came with the wheels. Next time I have the bearings out I'm going to do some measuring of the spacers and the wheels. These are just some eBay bearings; somewhat new and still spin nice.
View user's profile View All Posts By User

  Go To Top

Hosted by: Mad Moose Hosting