utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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prying apart front fork
When I get my all too frequent flat tire on the PL Comp XR+ (I am using tubes now but it hasn't taken care of the problem) it is a bear to get the
fork over the spacers when reassembling it. I use a 12" wrench, hammer, block of wood, etc. to spread it. I am just happy to not sustain injury in the
process. I am betting you guys have some easy technique - or brute strength.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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elfasa
Posts: 530
Registered: 8-8-2007
Location: Norfolk, UK
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...Ignore...
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utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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I am just talking about the fork spread over the spacers and nothing to do with the threads.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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BeamerBob
Posts: 6603
Registered: 5-11-2007
Location: Vegas
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Sounds like something could be bent or your spacers are the wrong size.
On the flats, make sure you don't have thorns stuck inside the tire. You can use old panty hose to slide along the inside of the tire to see if they
catch on anything sticking through. "Slime" is your savior for flats. it will seal them up without you ever knowing it was a problem. I recommend
using a tube in the tire if you are going to use slime. It eliminated a big thorn flat problem on our bikes.
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dirtslide
Posts: 401
Registered: 6-16-2007
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Mood: ready for the beach.
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the Peter Lynn XR+ fork is in fact a bit tight when getting it lined up with the spacers .here is a trick that I learned a while back, put the wheel/
tire in place with one side spacer (start from the right side) now slide in the axle bolt but only until it starts to show out the hub bearing, then
put the second spacer up against the inside of the other fork leg and hold it there with another small bolt just sliding into it from the outside of
that leg ,now push the wheel up until it is in contact with the second spacer, and when you straighten the wheel in place the fork will spring out a
bit and presto it will all line up ,now all you have to do is push the axle through and that will push the other holding bolt out the other side
.simple isn't it. after doing this a few times it will become super easy and others that own PL XR+ will be left wondering how you can do that so
quickly and easily. the other option is like Bob mentioned ,the spacer may be a shade long so you can give them a bit of gridding but try and make
them both the same if you go that route so that the wheel is still centered.Hope this helps and good luck.
Ozone Imp Quattro 1m
Peter Lynn Vapor 2.7m
Ozone Octane 3m
Mac Bego 200,600
PKD soulfly 4.4m
Flexifoil Blade VIP 8.5m oh yah!!!!
Flexifoil Sting 1m (rasta)
Flexifoil Blade III 6.6m
T6 crossfire wheelchair with free wheel
NPW 3/5m
Sky Tiger hi 40,60
Sky Country Reflex 2/3/4/5/7.2/8.5m
JOJO RM+ 10m thanks Jimmy
Peter Lynn XR+ midi buggy
OG 1992 Peter Lynn comp buggy
Flexifoil Scout freestyle buggy
Peter Lynn custom Bigfoot buggy
Sysmic S1 XXL race buggy
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utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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Mood: Ready for a breeze
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Thanks! I will give that a shot.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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greasehopper
Posts: 224
Registered: 4-3-2011
Location: Occupied Northern Mexico
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Mood: surfin' wit de' A-wee-ums
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I've never verified the fit on a PL buggy but there is such a thing as a 4.80/4.00x8, C rated tire that is a 6 ply, speed rated trailer tire for
highway use. They are heavy despite the tubeless configuration and they are a bear to mount, once. However, unless you are plowing into Mesquite trees
at light speed or playing chicken in a Cholla Cactus patch, that will eliminate your flats and you can not wear out the tread unless you do a lot of
flying over-powered on asphalt. They run about $26 at your local WalMart Supercenter. As Bobby said, a small bottle of Slime goes a very long way
toward increasing your wriding vs. wrenching quotient.
Personally, I've run the same set of 5.70-8 D rated 8 ply trailer tires at 3-7 psi on my Flexi Scout Buggly for 3 years across some of the nastiest,
tire eating terrain on the planet, Sonoran Desert scrub and blaze trail nearly every time out. I've NEVER had a puncture problem and the tread still
looks like new. Mounted on aluminum rims, they are ridiculously heavy in comparison but they are completely bomb-proof.
I suppose it's just a matter of how you want spend your time and money...
Ken Shaw
Riding the wild sastrugi of the Sonoran Desert in Scout Buggly
Personal Masseur to Chuckawalla Rock-It Series
Flexifoil : Blurr 5m
HQ : Beamer IV 5m : Crossfire II 3m : Montana V 9.5m
Ozone : Haka 5m : Cult 2.5m : Flow 2m : Imp 1.5m
Peter Lynn : Core 6.7m, 5.1m, 4m, 3m
Skydog SDT GenI : 4m
Revolution : Speed series Blast : 1.5 SLE
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elfasa
Posts: 530
Registered: 8-8-2007
Location: Norfolk, UK
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Haha, okay. Sorry, I completely misunderstood that ! lol..
I got rid of my comment. Save confusion. (And embarrassment :p )
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utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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Mood: Ready for a breeze
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Darn it, elfasa! I was just getting ready to copy and save your advice for when I do have thread issues. It sounded like some good info.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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3shot
Posts: 262
Registered: 2-14-2013
Location: Virginia
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Mood: counting down til' JIBE 2014
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Mine is tight too Tami. Not so sure it's as much the spacers as it is the mass production/assembly of the fork. My spacers are spot on, but the fork
is tight as heck.
HQ 1.8
Flexifoil Bullet 2.5
Flexifoil Petrol Rage 1.8
Flexifoil Acid Rage 3.5
Ozone Flow 3m (thanks Kent)
Ozone Flow 5m (thanks Caleb)
Peter Lynn Reactor II 6.9m (thanks rtz)
PL buggy with AWOC backrest (thanks Kent)
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elfasa
Posts: 530
Registered: 8-8-2007
Location: Norfolk, UK
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Quote: Originally posted by utahtami  | | Darn it, elfasa! I was just getting ready to copy and save your advice for when I do have thread issues. It sounded like some good info.
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Oh no, sorry !! :/ Ha..
Okay here you go, that info in a nutshell....
-Take the bolts off and soak in very hot water. This may wash off / dissolve any mud / sand / salt that gets in the thread. (They stay hot for a long
time, trust me! Hold with tongs or something and rinse under a cool tap afterwards).
-Clean thread with a clean duster / cloth (Hold the thread tightly in the cloth in one hand, and screw OUT with the other. Screw the nut onto a rolled
up corner of cloth then pull off). Can use a spray of WD40 when doing this.
- Use a little bit of copper grease (Ideally) on the threads. This stops them 'fusing' if they are left for a while. Can also use normal heavy duty
grease, or chain lube (Wet / dry depending on your conditions. I put wet lube on everything that moves on my buggy).
-Remember Nylock nuts don't need to be super tight. So don't over-tighten them
If they do get stuck use a piece of steel tubing, ~1m, to put over the wrench and get some extra leverage.
-Bolts / thread might get damaged / corroded, even if you cant see (especially if you have overtightened them before). If nothing else works replace
them. 8.8 tensile galvanised steel nuts / bolts are best for buggy axle bolts.
-Oh yeah.. And beat your chest until you feel nice and strong ! 
Hope this helps you !
Tim
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utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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Mood: Ready for a breeze
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Thanks Tim.
I am trying to be proactive and anticipate my next problem.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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utahtami
Posts: 36
Registered: 1-20-2013
Location: Basalt, CO
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Mood: Ready for a breeze
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Ken, I think after the next flat I am going for the 6 ply.
I have some left over snobbery from the bicycling world to be able to resort to slime. And actually Rusty did use some slime after one flat I had in
Ivanpah but it didn't help.
Ken or Bob: would you go tube or tubeless with the 6 ply?
3shot and dirtslide thanks for the confirmation about those forks.
Ozone: IMP Quattro, Access
HQ: Beamer, Toxic
PL: Hornet, Viper, Core, Reactor, Vapor
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BEC
Posts: 535
Registered: 9-4-2011
Location: Avon, N.Y.
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Mood: 6 months to go..just 6 months to go....
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Not only am I member......I'm also the president.....(for those of you who remember).....
Woodworker and kite buggier.....Go purchase (x1) Irwin spreader bar clamp...about 25.00 bucks...Make sure it's a spreader bar...They do make 1 version
that will double duty as a wood clamp and spreader...about 18"...This will do the trick of spreading the fork out a bit to do what you need to
do...You will also find a lot of other uses for this around the house so...not something that will just be purchased and used once in a while.
Peter Lynn Core 1.8
Peter Lynn Viper 5.3
Flexifoil Big Buzz 2.0
Flexifoil Rage 3.5
Flexifoil Blade II 4.0
H.Q. Apex II 7.5 (first de-power)
Flexifoil Bullet 7.0
NAPKA member US822
SS. Flexifoil buggy w/ both wide and std. axle Custom VTT seat
side rail pads, GPS unit
Bigfoot & barrow tires with PL kinked downtube
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BEC
Posts: 535
Registered: 9-4-2011
Location: Avon, N.Y.
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Mood: 6 months to go..just 6 months to go....
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| Quote: Originally posted by BEC | Not only am I member......I'm also the president.....(for those of you who remember).....
This is the one I'm talking about...You can change the head around to spread as well as clamp...Get the big one...not the 12 incher....bigger clamp =
more spreading power
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Peter Lynn Core 1.8
Peter Lynn Viper 5.3
Flexifoil Big Buzz 2.0
Flexifoil Rage 3.5
Flexifoil Blade II 4.0
H.Q. Apex II 7.5 (first de-power)
Flexifoil Bullet 7.0
NAPKA member US822
SS. Flexifoil buggy w/ both wide and std. axle Custom VTT seat
side rail pads, GPS unit
Bigfoot & barrow tires with PL kinked downtube
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BeamerBob
Posts: 6603
Registered: 5-11-2007
Location: Vegas
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Tubeless is lighter, but you have to do some trickery to seat the bead if tubeless. Tubes will let you change tires easily in the field since the
bead seating is automatic with some pressure in the tube.
Cast the bicycle snobbery aside for your buggy. Those grams in your tire allow you to ride and don't hurt any performance parameters.
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greasehopper
Posts: 224
Registered: 4-3-2011
Location: Occupied Northern Mexico
Member Is Offline
Mood: surfin' wit de' A-wee-ums
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BEC's got the right Idea as far as spreading the fork to get the spacers in, won't need much pressure.
On 6ply tires, TUBELESS ! You'll be fighting the tube for days as the low air pressure you'll want to run will cause the tube to chafe and wear
through rendering it useless no matter how much baby powder you put in there. Just make sure the bead on your rim is nice and clean and use a ton of
soapy water when you mount the tire. While the tire is still unseated, let it set in the sun or a warm spot to evaporate out as much of the water as
possible. Use just a bit of water in a spray mist to reactivate the soap film when seating the bead and make sure you don't exceed 20 psi of your rim
will be very unhappy and could explode in your face. When you get the right combination of water/soap and air pressure, it will slip in place without
much more than a lite snap. The soap acts like an adhesive over time and you'll play hell when you want to break the bead to change something so make
your changes early.
Ken Shaw
Riding the wild sastrugi of the Sonoran Desert in Scout Buggly
Personal Masseur to Chuckawalla Rock-It Series
Flexifoil : Blurr 5m
HQ : Beamer IV 5m : Crossfire II 3m : Montana V 9.5m
Ozone : Haka 5m : Cult 2.5m : Flow 2m : Imp 1.5m
Peter Lynn : Core 6.7m, 5.1m, 4m, 3m
Skydog SDT GenI : 4m
Revolution : Speed series Blast : 1.5 SLE
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ChrisH
Posts: 403
Registered: 9-10-2010
Location: Stayton, OR
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What dirtslide said. It gets easier, just a little tricky at first.
PL Viper 3.9 on Flexi ProLinks
PL Viper 6.8 on Flexi ProLinks
PL Comp XR+ Buggy - Xtra Wide/Long
MG CroOzer w/ Bigfoots and Barrows
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markite
Posts: 983
Registered: 3-8-2004
Location: Cambridge, ON, Canada
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Mood: No Mood.
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One last thing to add and may be a simple solution to check; if you put a wheel in a fork first and fully tighten then the fork flexes a little
causing the space to tighten to fit the headstock in the gap - and vice versa, if you assemble your fork and downtube and tighten the headstock fully
then it's usually a very tight fit and sometimes not enough to assemble the front wheel, axle bolt and spacers - make sure whatever you do first is in
place but loose before the next thing. And if changing the front wheel, loosen the headstock bolt first and then the wheel should slide out with
spacers. don't forget to tighten all after re-assembly
Mark Groshens NAPKA KC 13
WindSpeed kites & design - Canada
Peter Lynn: Charger2 18, Scorp 16, Charger2 15, Phantom II 12, Scorp 10, Phantom II 9, Phantom 9, Charger2 8, Syn 8, Charger 6, F 1200, 840
Ocean Rodeo: Flite 17.5, Rise 13, 10, 7 Razor 6
Foils: Full set of PL Lynx, Airea Raptors, PL Reactor IIs, PL Cores, Libre Spirits, Ozone Flow
buggies: PL XR+, Cameleon Pagona, custom bigfoot, PL Bigfoot, custom ice buggy
Boards: 2 custom directionals, O.R Surf series 5-11, Mako Skinny, Mako 140 Wide, Mako 150 Wide, Mako King, Brunotti
lots of old school skis, snowboard
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soliver
Posts: 929
Registered: 12-15-2011
Location: Marietta, GA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Flexing my mad metacognitive skills...
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Tami, one thing I've noticed with my PL tubeless wheels (AKA the ones that came with my XR) is that if I don't check the pressure regularly, it gets
down too low and I'll roll the bead off the rim. Not sure if you're having that same problem or some other reason for the frequent flats. I haven't
had that issue with my tires that have tubes.
I know your discussion here is regarding the front fork, but I'm wondering why you're getting so many flat tires?!?!?
Regarding the front fork, I'm in the same kiting/ woodworking club as Bruce (BEC) and would totally go that route in a minute. I also agree with
markite as well,... Though I haven't had that problem with my XR front for at all.
HQ -- 2.1m symphony beach
-- The Quiver of Green:
PL-- 2.6m Viper S
PL-- 4m Core
PL-- 5.1m Core
PL-- 5.5m Reactor II (not green though)
and a bag full of single and double line stuff.
VTT Stinger-XR HYBRID BUGGY: Comp XR front fork, home brew downtube, stinger rails, black widow seat, etc etc etc...
BMK FRANKENBUGGY: now converted to the FRANKEN-TANDEM
Current PB,... 22.8 mph,... MAN THAT'S FAST!!!
Allow yourself to be moved by that which cannot be seen.
She blogs about scrapbooking,... what a nerd.
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Vince H.
Posts: 70
Registered: 2-17-2009
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Member Is Offline
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Those Pesky Flats
I have a customer who was plagued with flat tires running here on Alberta farm scrub. Even with tubes the punctures persisted. His solution was to cut
up an old inner tube and place a layer on the inside of the tire between it and the tube. Worked like a charm.
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awindofchange
Posts: 1714
Registered: 3-14-2006
Location: Las Vegas
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Mood: Awesome - totally awesome
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As mentioned above, if you are removing the wheel from the fork, or if you are installing a new front fork, put the wheel on BEFORE you tighten up the
bolt on the headstock (downtube bolt). When you tighten up the bolt, it squeezes the front fork together making it very difficult to get the wheel
and spacers in. If you remove the headstock bolt - or loosen it you can very easily spread the fork open with minimal effort and install the wheel
and then tighten the headstock bolt.
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