There is a guy I've read about who kites with teles but unless you are uber confident on pins, I wouldn't.
I am a mogul skier so I like my bindings extra tight and that is the mentality I bring to kite skiing. Pretty much the worst thing that could happen
would be for you to loose a ski when super powered.
You do need edges and the more ice surface, the sharper they need to be but if the snow pack is decent they don't need to be razor sharp.
I generally turn around by sending the kite and carving hard down wind. Snow depth determines how fast I send the kite. If the surface is good you
will be pulled through an enormous power slide winding up behind the kite so you need to pull it back with the brakes or it will crumple, but if you
time it right, you get super powered, slide, reposition and take off at good speed.
Or you can switch direction by sending the kite and jumping around. Or, least desirable if the snow is too deep to manage easily, send the kite back
slow and hop around.
If powered you are always on edge so that's why you need to have a decent edge. I don't do too much crazy carving becuase if you carve too quick
towards the kite when powered you can slacken the lines and collapse the kite and then have it repower in the middle of the window.
You can carve back as much as you like.
Depower Quiver: 14m Gin Eskimo, 10m Gin Eskimo III, 6m Gin Yeti, 4.5m Gin Yeti (custom bridle and mixer)
Fixed Bridle Quiver: MAC Bego 400, JOJO ET Instinct 2.5 & 5.5, Lil Devil 1.5, Sting 1.2
Rides: Ground Industries