Copied from old forum:
July 9 2001 by Racelance
I was fortunate enough to have surfed Indonesia - it would be fun kite surfing there also - the weather is perfect (to say the least!). Here's a
link to my website - giving further details of my trip & recommendations for fellow surfers alike:
http://www.indo.0catch.com
Please check it out!
Here's a day during my trip:
June 19, 2001
This morning was unbelievable! It was about 6 to 8 foot and absolutely perfect. These waves are by far the best waves I've ever witnessed
anywhere. I surfed for about 4 hours and was absolutely blown away with how great Asu's wave was. We ate lunch and planned to go surfing at
around 2pm.
The waves actually grew a couple of feet larger while we were eating. I couldn't believe my eyes when we pulled up to check the surf. It was a
solid 8 to 10 foot. Some solid 20 foot plus faces. The waves were absolutely perfect & enormous. These were the largest waves of our trip &
the most perfect. I had some of the largest waves I've ever surfed in my entire life this session, I only had about 4 waves yet that was a lot
(in about 3 hours)! I had a clean up set hit me on my head, so I survival dove and my damn big wave leash snapped right away. Fortunately I managed to
get my surfboard - I think the board blew up in the air & came back down about 20 feet in from me. Fortunately a person further in helped assist
the board to me (talk about lucky!).
After my 4th wave I was waiting for the next set, unfortunately a cleanup set poured in and absolutely pounded me and the few others out there. The
first wave broke right in front of me it was a solid 20'+ face & throwing, I survival dove and came up gasping for air. The next wave dumped
right in front of me again, this wave was one I will never forget. It threw me tumbling somersaults under the water, finally I was able to almost grab
a gasp of air but unfortunately the pressure sucked me back down without allowing me to grab a gasp. By this time I was freaking out because I
didn't get that much needed air! I finally came up and there was another one that mashed me, it wasn't quite as bad but still hurt. Finally
I was in the impact zone - this is where you really don't ever want to be! I got totally slammed by another 4 waves & finally I was able to
almost catch some white water to find some reef I could walk on.
Overall this was the best surf I've ever witnessed & the largest surf I ever surfed. I'm stoked for tomorrow! I never saw so many broken
boards on one beach before! There were guys paddling in - it was so big. One of the guys that got washed in with me had to get stitches in his chin,
fortunately for him we had a doctor in our crew and he took good care of him at Steve and Max's house. Francisco (a friend from Portugal) broke
his 2nd of 3 boards before even catching a wave - that's heavy! Only a few of us ventured out for this session.
I'm waiting for photographs of this night, my friend from Portugal got the photos of that night. I was to stoked to surf, I forgot to grab a few
shots with my camera! The shots to the right are from earlier in the day.